DISCONNECT SWITCH CHANGE
Problem - Located behind the driver's seat as you know is the battery main kill switch. Mine male switch with the black plastic handle turns when you push it in the female receptacle past the internal catch point, but then does not maintain enough tension to keep the kill switch fully engaged. It is very finicky, and the play in the switch is very minimal say 1-3 mm in total backoff that renders the power off again. It might take me 10-15 tries now to get it to stay engaged, so clearly the internal part has just worn down. Replacing the entire female receptacle seems excessive, so it may be simpler to take the perpendicular pressed-in pin out of the male part and replace it with a larger diameter pin. I had tried inserting a small piece of rubber just to act as extra length of the male switch to keep the internal switch engaged, but this only works part of the time and now not much at all.
Possibility 1 - I have change mine. It is attached to the car from the engine side and is very tricky to change. I did open mine and noted that if you do not have mechanical issue, battery switch can't go wrong. It is very simple and contact point materials are good, but if the spring dies, then you have to change it. The switch key that has Lamborghini logo on it, is special for this car, but switch itself is a generic Bosch part. Switch key does not contact anything, it just pushes actual contactor in switch. Metal shroud has two bolts welded to it and it clamps switch to wall, do not overtighten this as it bends part of the cabin side.
Note that in my car there are two connectors for the rear wiring harness.
Part number for this switch is Bosch 0341001001 (you find it from Scania for example and many other car and trucks).
I use the Bosch key and keep the original safe so it does not get stolen.
Problem - Located behind the driver's seat as you know is the battery main kill switch. Mine male switch with the black plastic handle turns when you push it in the female receptacle past the internal catch point, but then does not maintain enough tension to keep the kill switch fully engaged. It is very finicky, and the play in the switch is very minimal say 1-3 mm in total backoff that renders the power off again. It might take me 10-15 tries now to get it to stay engaged, so clearly the internal part has just worn down. Replacing the entire female receptacle seems excessive, so it may be simpler to take the perpendicular pressed-in pin out of the male part and replace it with a larger diameter pin. I had tried inserting a small piece of rubber just to act as extra length of the male switch to keep the internal switch engaged, but this only works part of the time and now not much at all.
Possibility 1 - I have change mine. It is attached to the car from the engine side and is very tricky to change. I did open mine and noted that if you do not have mechanical issue, battery switch can't go wrong. It is very simple and contact point materials are good, but if the spring dies, then you have to change it. The switch key that has Lamborghini logo on it, is special for this car, but switch itself is a generic Bosch part. Switch key does not contact anything, it just pushes actual contactor in switch. Metal shroud has two bolts welded to it and it clamps switch to wall, do not overtighten this as it bends part of the cabin side.
Note that in my car there are two connectors for the rear wiring harness.
Part number for this switch is Bosch 0341001001 (you find it from Scania for example and many other car and trucks).
I use the Bosch key and keep the original safe so it does not get stolen.
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