SPOILER BROKEN AND REPLACED AND REMOVAL DETAILS
Spare bumper with the light version with the fibreglass upper part. Much lighter than the rubber bumper.
Not many parts to the whole front spoiler.
Not many parts to the whole front spoiler.
There is a fair bit of work to get the spoiler looking perfect.
Difference from the Parts Manual is the air intake for the passenger room ventilation. There is an air intake on the spoiler.
Difference from the Parts Manual is the air intake for the passenger room ventilation. There is an air intake on the spoiler.
For this they cut the lower side of the left fender.
And made an air intake at the left wheel housing.
On the right side, you can see the fender is the same as the Urraco.
On the right side, you can see the fender is the same as the Urraco.
You have to cut this open to have access to the bumper mounts, otherwise you have to remove the main lights! There is no other way to access the screws, now with this open fender you can also access the lower end of the fender flares (left top).
Without the cut open it's impossible to access the area where the spoiler is screwed onto the fender.
New spoiler to test fit. On the first Jalpas with Silhouette taillights the oil radiator was mounted also on the front, instead in the right rear air intake. Below the water radiator you can still see the mounting holes for the oil cooler.
Without the cut open it's impossible to access the area where the spoiler is screwed onto the fender.
New spoiler to test fit. On the first Jalpas with Silhouette taillights the oil radiator was mounted also on the front, instead in the right rear air intake. Below the water radiator you can still see the mounting holes for the oil cooler.
The central grille is different, top the fibreglass spoiler (Euro-version), below the Swiss and American version with the rubber bumper.
On the rubber version the middle piece is riveted on the car, on of the bigger wholes is for the beam lights, the other for the grill.
Mount of the rubber bumper and the side indicator wire, the whole is for the screw of the indicator.
On the rubber version the middle piece is riveted on the car, on of the bigger wholes is for the beam lights, the other for the grill.
Mount of the rubber bumper and the side indicator wire, the whole is for the screw of the indicator.
Side indicator is very easy to install.
Looks so much cleaner without the rubber piece.
Looks so much cleaner without the rubber piece.
REMOVAL DETAILS
As the Jalpa is so low I start jacking with the Scissor jack as in picture 1. I then transfer over to the hydraulic trolley jack to get the car up to a decent height. PS the front of the Jalpa is reasonably light and the small scissor jack doesn't have too many problems, even though I am not jacking centrally, just be careful as in picture 2. The last part is to support the car with the jack stands as in picture 3. (This is just the way I do it other people may have different jacking point options).
I have included a picture of the tools I used to remove the spoiler just for your refernce. 10mm & 13mm socket, 1/4 inch racket set, 6 inch extension bar, pliers, telescopic magnetic pickup tool and torch I have included the picture.
Remove the rubber grommets as indicated in picture 4.
Then use the 13mm socket, 6 inch extension bar and ratchet to remove the nuts securing the spoiler to the fender as indicated in picture 5. it is on quiet an angle.
As you can see from picture 6 the washer will NOT fit through the holes, use the magnetic pickup tool to remove the washers, angle them towards the vents and then use long nose pliers to grab them as indicated in picture 7.
NOTE 1/2 inch socket set sockets will NOT fit through the grommet holes.
The first picture shows the first two nuts to undo on the under side of the spoiler, it doesn't matter what order you do but have something under the spoiler to support while you undo all the nuts, if the spoiler drops down too far then spacers and air vents that can also be seen in the first image will fall off. The nuts and bolts were 10mm on some accasions it is nessecary to have the spanner on top to hold the bolt as in the 2nd picture, space is tight for some of them (getting to the top of bolts) but they are all possible.
In the third picture you can see the rest of the nuts and washers that need to be removed.
As can be seen in the forth picture, I put the nut and washer back on while the spoiler is lowered about an inch, not enough for the spacers to fall off but enough to get the washer and nut back on.
As can be seen in the first picture I put some tape onto the end of each of the bolts to avoid scratching the spoiler during removal.
You can see in the last photo the mount points used in my installation, There are a couple of extra pre drilled holes that are not used (One between the 3rd & forth red arrows). I have also put a little piece of black rubber( just above third red arrow) to stop potential rubbing of the spolier and bumper.
I number and screw back on all the parts to avoiding losing them. You can see the black rubber washers, you can adjust the size of these to help get the gap correct when refitting the spoiler, I used some old rubber door stoppers which where of similar diameter, cut them down to the required thickness and drilled a hole through the middle.
I have also marked with the green arrow what could potentially be part of the US SPEC mounting point, looks like you would undo/ loosen a nut and then you could pull it off. Raymond had also mentioned some rivets that had been used, but this is only for the version with the black rubber bumper since the entire bumper is made of three pieces.
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